DIAMOND SHAPE
A diamond’s shape is its most distinguishing and easily identifiable feature. Diamonds are cut in a variety of shapes that maximise diamond brilliance and give character to the diamond. Different shapes can represent different personalities and events. Round brilliant cuts are the most popular, followed by Princess cut diamonds. At NB Jewellers®, we offer the 10 most popular diamond shapes, certified by GIA. While the correct term is diamond shape, many also refer to this feature as the cut of the diamond. There are many different types of cut or shapes of diamonds. However, there are ten that are most popularly used for jewellery and engagement rings. Learn more about each shape below.
ABOUT DIAMOND SHAPES
Diamonds are cut in a variety of shapes. But how does a diamond cutter decide what shape to create? Well, a diamond cutter's number one responsibility is to preserve and maximise carat weight. And since rough diamonds can come in unpredictable shapes and sizes, the diamond cutter will create whichever shape maximises carat weight and value.
Interestingly enough, round cut diamonds actually result in the most wastage of rough diamond carat. The other fancy shapes are deeper and tend to have longer, less uniform shaping so they capture more of the rough diamond.
While diamonds can be cut in any shape, there are 10 popular diamond shapes: Round, Princess, Cushion, Oval, Emerald, Pear, Marquise, Asscher, Radiant and Heart shape. Exotic shapes include Baguettes, Bullets, Half Moons, Trillion, Old Mine, Rose, even Horse head.
Round
The history of the round cut diamond is a tad different than most other diamond shapes. It took years upon years of diamond cutting in order to create this style which is incredibly popular today. Unlike most other diamond cuts, the round cut diamond was invented through the jewellers’ attempt to find the diamond cut with the most facets and the most shine. Ultimately, this look is perfect for the woman looking to display her classy, elegant, and timeless nature.
Most popular and researched shape - When cut well, the proper reflection of light, the potential of brilliance and brightness is maximised. The round brilliant cut diamond has 58 facets. Its 58-facet cut, divided among its crown (top), girdle (widest part) and pavilion (base), is calibrated through a precise formula to achieve the maximum in fire and brilliance. When cutting a rough stone, more is lost in shaping a round diamond, so the cost of each carat retained is higher. Over 75% of the world's diamonds are Round Brilliants. There are many different types of cuts, however, the most popular are those that have been used to create engagement rings and jewellery over time.
Princess
The princess cut diamond was created after polling women to find out what they wanted for many years. This cut is particularly famous for its incredible shine despite its square cut. Different diamond shapes have different advantages, and for the princess cut, they are environmental; the princess cut uses up to 80% of the rough diamond which means that this diamond is not only beautiful, but also better for the environment than most other diamond shapes.
Second most popular shape - Preferred in square shape but available in rectangular shape also. The princess cuts that are slightly rectangular tend to be lower in cost. This cut requires more weight to be directed toward the diamond's depth in order to maximise brilliance. Depth percentages of 70% to 78% are common. Ideal square ratio ranges from 1.00 to 1.05. A princess cut should always be set for 4 prongs protecting its corners from chips. It is ideal for long fingers and wedding bands. It has 57 or 58 facets and is known as square modified brilliant cut or Rectangular Modified Brilliant when the ration is greater than 1.10.
Cushion
The cushion cut diamond dates back to the 19th century. Similar to the princess cut, this diamond features a relatively square shape. However, the cushion cut is special in the fact that it can come in a multitude of ratios, making it either square or rectangular. Additionally, the corners of this stone are rounded which allows for it to be paired with a woman with an active and trendy lifestyle.
Cushion cuts blend the energy of a round brilliant with the symmetry of a radiant cut. It's romantic appeal is reflected in its larger 58 facets and rounded, squared corners. Also known as the "pillow cut," the cushion cut has larger faceting, which augments the diamond's brilliance. Larger facets can show clarity inclusions, so evaluate the location of inclusions by examining the certificate's diamond plot. Cushion cuts are popular in both square and rectangular shapes. Square cuts are generally a bit rarer, but do look more symmetrical in an engagement ring. Cushion cut diamonds have great fire (the light that is reflected out of a diamond in a rainbow of colour).
Oval
An oval diamond engagement ring is perfect for the woman who adores the fire of the round brilliant diamond, but wants something that is slightly different. The Oval shape was designed in the 1960s by Lazare Kaplan, the cousin of Marcel Tolkowsky who aided the development of round brilliant diamonds. Oval shaped diamonds share a similar cut with the traditional round brilliant but have a more contemporary edge.
Emerald
Emerald diamond cuts were some of the very first diamond cuts in the world. However, they were not standardised until 1940 because of their closeness with other diamond cuts. This cut is perfect for coloured gemstones as well as high-quality diamonds; if choosing an emerald cut, it is recommended not to compromise in diamond quality because the style emphasises the colour in the stone.
Emerald diamond cuts represent unification, as they are well proportioned and bring out the pure brilliance of a diamond. Also known as "step cut" because of the layered faceting, the emerald cut possesses unique appeal with symmetrical sparkle. The faceting is minimal and simple, and therefore tends to show inclusions. The diamond has 58 facets, roughly 25 on the crown, 25 on the pavilion, and 8 on the girdle with 3 rows of bottom steps and three rows of top steps. An open setting can also show the diamond's colour, so closed or bezel type settings are recommended with lower colours.
Pear
The pear shaped diamond settings take into account marquise shaped diamonds and oval shaped diamonds in order to create a more brilliant and magical diamond cut. A pear shaped diamond engagement ring is incredibly unique, and many women praise its one-of-a-kind nature. Pear shaped diamond settings allow for many different creative routes in rings. A pear shaped diamond ring is unmistakable because the stone is in the shape of a teardrop with a slightly flatter and larger bottom with a the rest of the diamond coming to a skinny point at the top of the stone.
The pear shape diamond is artistic due to its many stylish variations. With 58 facets, light dances through the diamond similar to a round brilliant, maximising sparkle. It's teardrop appearance leaves a lasting impression. The pear shape’s body allows the wearer the option of pointing it up or down. Its faceting often masks inclusions, and those found near the point tend to be less visible. Pear shapes can be wide or elongated, with longer pear shapes providing a slimming effect on fingers. Suggested cut ratio: 1.5 - 1.7. Most flaws such as naturals, and extra facets are at the point of the diamond. Always set the diamond with a prong covering the point of the stone to prevent any chipping.
Marquise
The marquise cut diamond goes by many nicknames, including the football cut, boat cut, eye cut, or the navette cut. While this diamond shape is not the most popular of all of the diamond shapes, its intriguing shape and style are still incredibly beautiful; this cut allows the bride much more creativity in her ring choice.
The marquise cut is a classic and historic diamond that resembles the delight of a smile. The marquise is a variant of round and pear shaped diamonds, and like the oval is a perfect complement to long, slender fingers. The marquise cut's elongated body can make its appearance larger than its actual carat weight. It is an excellent cut to show the impression of long, slender fingers. Suggested Cut Ratio: 1.75 to 2.25 is the ideal shape.
Asscher
The asscher cut diamond was originally developed in 1902, making it relatively old in the terms of diamond cuts. This stone is nearly octagonal in shape due to all of its curved edges. Asscher cuts give off a timeless effect with their vintage and unique designs. Additionally, asscher cut diamonds are understated diamond ring shapes due to their step-cut facets; these facets create more of a soft glow emanating from the stone than a brilliant statement piece.
The asscher cut is (also a step cut diamond like the emerald cut) is a blend of the princess and emerald cuts with X-shaped facets from its corners to its CENTRE culet. The brilliance of its faceting can mask certain inclusions and lower colour grades. Asscher cut diamonds have a clean balance, visual appeal, and can reflect clarity inclusions and colour. Higher grades in both categories are generally recommended. The step cut emphasises the clarity of the diamond, and it is ideal for showcasing higher clarity diamonds. Asscher cuts are a popular shape that was developed during the Art Deco Period. Suggested Cut Ratio: 1.00 to 1.05 for square proportions.
Radiant
The radiant cut diamond is considered to be one of the shiniest cuts of diamonds because of its 70-facet cut. It was originally invented by Henry Grossbard in 1977 because he wanted to combine the best aspects of the round cut with the best aspects of the emerald cut. Jewellers tend to say that this cut is geared more towards energetic and bubbly women because with all of the perfectly-cut facets, the diamond will be sure to not go unnoticed.
A beautifully symmetrical, non-traditional cut, the radiant cut combines the brilliance of a round and the purity of an emerald cut. Trimmed corners give it versatility among all kinds of jewellery, especially engagement rings. The faceting of a radiant cut gives it a fiery look compared to a princess cut, while maintaining soft, cut corners. The radiant fuses the plus points of other popular diamond shapes. The rectangular radiant cut is an excellent option for buyers who like the emerald cut shape, but want something with the brilliance of a round. A ratio of 1.00 to 1.05 will create a square shape, and from 1.30 to 1.50 will produce a rectangle.
Heart
There's no better way to express your love than with a heart shaped diamond, it is the ultimate symbol of love. A heart shaped diamond is similar to a pear shaped diamond with a cleft cut into its top. This fancy diamond cut adds a distinct, feminine and romantic touch to any piece of diamond jewellery. The cut requires a highly skilled diamond cutter to ensure optimum brilliance as it is intricate.